Merry Sabbath to all, and too all a gut vach!

As I'm laying here, I'm listening to the sound of construction outside. A large tractor is moving large clumps of earth from the site next door. A jackhammer is not only pulverizing rock, but also the now dead silence that was in the air only moments ago. I am reminded that it is Christmas today only by checking twitter before writing this and seeing everyone in the 'States talking about it being Christmas Eve over there. Outside, along with construction is a world of working people, going about their business just before Shabbat, on a regular Friday. It's a little before 8am here and it is rather cold, I must admit. Hence why I'm doing this from the warm comfort of bed. I am too tired/lazy to upload and edit my digital shots from yesterday. Please understand. I will do that probably Saturday night or Sunday morning. Please check them out on my flickr photo-stream (linked to the right in the links section) once that happens. They are amazing!

We had a rather late night last night, going to bed around 2ish, though it wasn't the fault of jetlag. The morning began with us, once again, heading to the Shuk. We decided it'd be a good idea to do major shopping then instead of Friday because it was going to be insanely crowded. Not that we don't plan on going today as well. We still need things like Challah and cake and more rugalach to feed our addiction. But so we purchased items for the dish I am to prepare: Kidney pie. Typing that sentence caused a somewhat evil grin to move across my face. It is going to be delicious! I will surely document the event with detailed photographs and a link to the recipe.

We also purchased some lovely sharp cheddar cheese, some pesto cheese, and these exquisite olives that served as our light lunch yesterday after we returned from the Shuk. I took photos of that as well.

In the evening, we headed to the old city for our tours. I loaded up my serious photo gear, perching cameras on tripod and making sure my pockets were stuffed with film and lens cleaners and what not. We walked to the Kotel through the streets of Jerusalem, getting funny looks from native frummies who looked at me a bit dumbfounded as if to say, "What is a nice frum Jewish woman doing smothered in cameras, balancing a tripod over her shoulder?" What can I say? I'm a liberated Orthodox Jewish female. *shrug*

I got waved through security at the Kotel because the guard thought I was a journalist. I corrected him that I was an artist. He said, "Yea, me too." Ok. I felt a little unsure if he was doing a good job but Michael assured me it was merely because I am very, very white, wearing a tichel and a long skirt, and speak perfect English. I do not fit the profile for an evil-do'er. Apparently, I do fit the profile of a journalist though; which concerns me because those two are not that far apart.

At any rate, I took a few nice night shots before we went into first the heritage tour and then the tunnel tour. The tours were really great. I got asked by another tourist why I had a film camera on me when I also had a digital one. The digital was better, he exclaimed. "Why on earth would you have film?" I gave him the same shpeil that I give to anyone and everyone with doubts of the power of analog photography: Does a painter use only one brush to paint a masterpiece? Instantly, as always, it was now understood. He was a nice guy though. We chatted with him a bit at the end of the second tour before heading off to take more pictures. We wandered around the alcoves and hallways of the Arab shuk in the old city. It was pleasantly deserted, with the exception of a few soldiers, posted there to keep peace. I got asked a couple more times about cameras by onlookers and I got a few more odd glances from my fellow religious Jews.

We headed back out and a flood of Christian pilgrims migrated past us, going the opposite direction. I got lots of shots of them too. A few more long night exposures later, we headed to Ben Yahuda St and witnessed the bustling nightlife and partook of hot, chocolaty crepes. Lots of people out partying last night circa midnight. All walks of life and sorts of people, mingling together in the holy city of Jerusalem. Some goofing off, others catching a meal. Some playing music, more dancing and singing. It was lovely.

When we got home it was rather late/early but I still managed to be up at 6:30 this morning.

As I've mentioned we're to head back to the shuk for last minute things. I'm koshering the oven as we speak and I hope to cook. We're invited to Michael's cousin for Friday night meal, which is lovely and exciting. I hope it isn't too cold tonight on the walk back.

Shabbat Shalom!

First Day, What a Day!

It's almost 7am again. I'm up and listening to the birds sing to the world outside. Michael is still in bed and I'm here in the living room so as not to disturb him with my keyboard clicking. I just had an easy breakfast of cereal and milk; a honey almond flake with Yotvatah 3% milk. YUM! I'm wrapped in a blanket and very relaxed.

I slept well last night. I forced us to stay up until 10pm in order to best combat any possible lag still abounding. For the most part it worked. Michael didn't quite make it to 10 though. He fell asleep around 9:30 and for that I can totally forgive him. By the end of the day yesterday we were both very tired.

After blogging my last post yesterday morning, we showered and got out the door in search of food and sightseeing. We headed to the Shuk and greeted many cats on the way who were enjoying the sunlight. It was actually pretty nice, warm, and outside. We made our way there and purchased a fried breakfast pastry to share. It was hot and filled with cheese. We also got some fresh orange and pomegranate juices which were exquisite.



And, of course, Michael had to have his choco from a bag.



What we couldn't pass up as dessert from breakfast (Yes, there is such a thing as dessert from breakfast ... more people should have it!) were those magical chocolate rugalach from Marzipan bakery.


An entire kilo was purchased and half of it is gone as I type.

We walked about the market and shopped around for things that we needed to stock the kitchen with. Things like baking pans and olive oil and stuff like that. Also picked up some yummie olives for munching. I got a few really nice shots of the market.

After this we headed back home to unload the pack from all our goodies and started feeling tired again. By this time it was about 1:00ish. Perhaps we weren't as over the jetlag as I'd originally thought. I refused to let us nap because that would mean we'd continue to be off, so instead we watched some American TV from the computer's slingbox.

Later, we went back out again to the shuk a second time to get milk and cereal. Home again to drop it off and then out for a walk around. We walked to Ben Yahuda St. and around Zion Square. On the way there, we passed a woman in the street. I did a double take and recognized her as a friend from circa 15 years ago! "Sofie?!" I turned as she was walking the opposite direction we were. It was, in fact her! Turns out, she is living in Israel now and was in a bit of a hurry to meet another friend. But we exchanged numbers and said we'd be in touch. What a small world!

We explored a bit more and tried to figure out what to have and where to eat dinner. We decided on Shwarma. It was SO delicious! And cheap! Dinner cost only $20 for the both of us and we got free fries and salads. The beef and lamb shwarma was huge in these really puffy and good laffas! YUM!

We walked around a bit more and noticed how things were changed from the last time we'd been here. There is a lot of construction, both on roads and there new buildings being built. A few buildings that used to be there were now gone and new construction is taking place. This morning, I got to thinking about it and I do believe that this is what the American and BBC newses are talking about when they complain about "settlement" activity in Jerusalem. Settlements my butt, if that is the case. To a casual observer who actually is here, it looks like urban improvement going on in an already vibrant urban environment. That would be like saying that building renovations in the East Village was some sort of "settlement activity." Political cat poo.

At any rate, we walked down to a city park and sat for a bit as the sun went down and it got colder and colder. By this time we had donned coats and jackets and several layers of clothing that had not really been necessary in the light of daytime until now. When it got a little too cold for comfort, we headed home again and relaxed some more. I did some laundry and Michael read on the couch. It was a fantastic first day.

Today, we plan to head to the old city. I'll be bringing along the medium format camera in addition to the digital slr. I'll probably be shooting in black and white today and am still going back and fourth regarding whether or not to bring the tripod. We have a couple of tours planned by the Kotel for later this evening so I'm not sure what I want to carry all day.

The sun is warming the apartment slightly now and I see it peeking through the windows. I now hear the workers outside working on some sort of excavation.



By the way, if anyone wants to see the photo set of these photographs and more, you should check that out here. It should grow with more and more interesting shots every day. For now, they're all digital for obviously I wont be able to process the film until we return to the states. I'll post the link again once those are up. I'll post it up in the links section of the blog too, but keep checking that every day as well because the photos you see here are merely the tip of the iceberg.

Have a great night, America, as we start our morning!

Boker Tov, Ahuvi!

So I'm awake. It's 7:30am as I'm typing this and I'm pretty much awake and over the jetlag. Michael is asleep because he's having a harder time of things. Poor guy.

Our apartment is situated in Nachlaot just a couple blocks south of the Machene Yehuda Shuk, the most amazing and fantastic place for foodies like myself in the whole world, let alone all of Israel. It's a little farther than the place we stayed last time, but I hope it isn't so bad.

The flights were ok. We had some trouble with seats because, even though we'd paid Delta good money like 4 months ago, the stupid airline put us on standby because they oversold the flight -- something I strongly believe should be illegal: I'm talkin' to you, Mr President Obama!

We got on the flight ok to New York but it was awful at the end. We were stuck in the center (as in no window seat access at all) and it was terrible and partially to blame for me almost barfing because of the heavy turbulence as we approached JFK. Motion sick as a dog! We hit the icy ground with a wild thud and I was sooo sick! The plane was late and we taxied on the tarmac forever until we got to the gate.

Thus, once we were allowed off the flying torture machine, we ran like mad to the next gate, only to be told that we, once again, did not have actual seat assignments. I got this lecture from this SOB Delta employee that I "should've gone online and requested seats when I got the tickets, bla bla blah" I told him that I did and was unable to do so because HIS website wouldn't let me. He then began to lecture me about how Delta and most airlines oversell tickets. I told him that should be illegal and we went back and forth because he was excusing it because it wasn't illegal. I began getting very upset because, one way or another, he was telling me that this was all MY fault. I was trying to be polite, but I was tired, hungry, needed very badly to use a restroom, and paid lots of money to be on this flight and he was very, very bad at customer service! I refused to be the blame for Delta Airlines messing up my flight plans because THEY oversold the flight. Not. My. Problem. Jerk. I verbally kicked his ass.

Later, when we got to Israel, we saw this story online and I had to laugh and wonder if that dude was the cause.

At any rate, we did get on the flight. They waited for us. This was somewhat more pleasant because it was smoother. Very little turbulence. It was longer though, of course. They fed us meals and they were actually really, really good for airline food. We had kosher meals of chicken and pasta and then turkey sandwiches. I got some old lady's unopened chicken as a second helping because I was starving! Airline food never tasted so good.

Unfortunately, we didn't move as much as we should have and both Michael and I came off the plane with very swollen legs. It was a bit scary but the swelling has gone down considerably.

Upon disembarking the flight, we went through immigration and then customs. All our bags a came in just fine, THANK G-D! I do believe this to be a first. We met up with Michael's uncle Mark after baggage claim and he took the two-ton bag Michael's mother had sent with us for Mark and the family. We then boarded a shuttle, as Mark had to return to work. This was about 3:30pm Israel time. Rainy Israel is a gorgeous sight. It is so green!

When we got to the neighborhood, it was hard to find the apartment and very, very cold. Michael walked up and down our street while I waited with the luggage ... and the cats. He found it but couldn't get in. I went upstairs and tried the code. It worked, we got in we were safe and we passed out! I woke a few times in the night, but as I said at the beginning of this post, things are good now for me. It's 8:30am now that I'm writing this portion and Michael is still asleep.

Our plans today are to go to the shuk, get some breakfast there (RUGALACH!) and do some shopping. Possibly, we shall go to the Kotel as well. I can see the Knesset from our bedroom window and there is a lovely view of Jerusalem in general. You may have noticed I didn't post any pictures yet. That is because they are still packed away and I am typing this under many blankets, wearing my footie pajamas. I hope to take photos today, so stay tuned for that.

In any case, hope all is well in galus and I'll write more soon.

Right of Return

We made it!

After a long, exhausting trip, we are finally here. I'm a zombie right now so please bare with me as I will update with more detail in the morning (it is Tues night, 8pm here).

G'nite!